Before sunrise, I arrived at the Feilai Temple Viewing Platform, secured a front-row, center spot, and set up my camera to film my first-ever time-lapse video of the 'golden sunrise on the snow mountain.' As the sunrise approached, the number of visitors at the viewing platform grew, and with an excited press of the shutter, accompanied by my eyes witnessing the snow mountain reflecting the sun for the very first time, although drifting clouds occasionally obscured the peak, the occasional glimpses of the illuminated summit left me thoroughly satisfied with this first unlocking of a high-plateau journey.

Along the way, there is the Jinsha River First Bend Viewing Platform, which is well worth a visit. Overlooking the scene of the Jinsha River winding around the mountains, one cannot help but marvel at the wonders of nature. Although the viewing platform parking lot has barriers, it is free of charge, and you can drive right in, making parking very convenient. 

Aside from passing through several single-lane sections with washed-out roadbeds, my most vivid memory is the Langdu Tunnel entrance being half-buried by rockfall. Entering through the remaining one-car-width opening, even with high beams on, I couldn't see the dark tunnel ahead; I could only hear the sound of tires wading through water and gravel. I drove forward anxiously until emerging from the tunnel, at which point I finally breathed a sigh of relief. The final hurdle on this road was the rapid climb from the Echu Valley at an altitude of 1,200 meters all the way up and over the Echu Mountain Pass at an altitude of 5,145 meters. The rapid gain in altitude made me experience mild altitude sickness all over again.

Although the road conditions on the Xiangdao Highway are thrilling, with sparse traffic and no cell service along the way, the scenery is magnificent, and I highly recommend it to friends who love adventure. 🎒🏞️🚗

Though nestled in a remote mountainous region, Daocheng Yading boasts remarkably well-equipped facilities. Along the three designated routes meticulously planned by the scenic area, visitor service centers are readily available. When I visited, Yading Village within the scenic area was undergoing comprehensive village-wide renovations. In the future, the village will offer an expanded array of guesthouses, providing direct views of Yading's sacred peaks and allowing even more travelers to stay right within the heart of the reserve for mountaineering and hiking adventures. 

Since the scenic area cannot possibly be fully explored in a single day, the ticket allows for free re-entry the following day, along with half-price shuttle bus rides—which is why most visitors plan a two-day itinerary here. The reserve maps out three distinct routes for travelers—the Guanyin Compassion Route, the Wenshu Wisdom Route, and the Vajra Challenge Route—which together weave through all the major highlights.

The Guanyin Compassion Route leads from Chonggu Temple and its surrounding meadows to the Pearl Lake nestled right beneath Mount Xiannairi. This route is relatively gentle yet exceptionally picturesque, taking about three hours round trip. It is highly recommended for the first day to help adapt to high-altitude hiking. Chonggu Temple is a classic Tibetan Buddhist sanctuary; though modest in size, its interior murals are exquisitely detailed and well worth a visit. Wild creatures like macaques and squirrels roam the area, and right beneath Mount Xiannairi lies the emerald-green Zhuomalacuo (Pearl Lake), reflecting the sacred peak in a breathtaking dance of light and shadow. In my view, this is the most mesmerizing scenery in Daocheng Yading and an absolute must-see.

The Wenshu Wisdom Route is a forested boardwalk stretching alongside the stream from Chonggu Temple up to Luorong Pasture. If you still have time and leg strength left after completing the Guanyin Compassion Route, this scenic woodland trail is well worth a stroll. Along the way, there are light electric cart stops between Chonggu Meadow and Luorong Pasture, allowing you to hop on a cart whenever fatigue sets in.

The ultimate destination of the Vajra Challenge Route consists of two internet-famous gems: Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake. Reaching them requires scaling a steep, unrelenting flight of stairs—a severe test of physical endurance. Many travelers are tempted to tackle this route on the first day while their energy is highest. However, for city dwellers like us who are still grappling with mild altitude sickness on day one, directly challenging an altitude of over 4,400 meters places an immense burden on the body. Along the way, I witnessed several young people completely exhausted halfway up, having to be carried the rest of the way by local guides. That is why I strongly recommend choosing the Guanyin Compassion Route for your first day: it demands less energy while helping you acclimate to the altitude, allowing a night of rest to fully restore your stamina so you can better conquer this challenging trail.

When taking this line, I highly recommend horseback riding from Luorong Pasture to the trailhead. Not only does it conserve your energy, but it also offers an authentic experience of riding through rugged mountain trails—something entirely different from amusement park pony rides. However, the horse teams operate only five trips a morning, with 30 horses per trip. Because numbers are strictly limited, you must catch the very first shuttle bus when the park opens at 7:00 AM, transfer to the first electric cart at Chonggu Meadow to reach Luorong Pasture, purchase a horse-riding ticket, and ride in assigned batches. Those who arrive late are left with no choice but to hike all the way to the trailhead.

Beside Milk Lake stands a visitor center capable of accommodating nearly a hundred people, where you can dine and rest. A path beside the center leads up to Five-Color Lake. Unfortunately, encountering overcast, rainy weather on the mountain accompanied by fierce winds and low temperatures meant I couldn't linger long before heading back down.

While the Vajra Challenge Route is a true test of physical limits and rewards you with the profound achievement of high-mountain climbing, if pure, unadulterated scenery is what you seek, I insist that the Guanyin Compassion Route to witness Mount Xiannairi is an experience you simply cannot miss.

Aside from the psychological pressure of squeezing through the towering gorges of the Maowu Canyon, it is a relatively safe and easy-to-navigate route. 

As I neared the end of the highway, just before connecting to the road leading into Shangri-La City, Yunnan, a sharp, brilliant rainbow suddenly appeared ahead, faintly accompanied by a second, outer halo—as if bidding a fond farewell to my high-plateau expedition. In an instant, the tense nerves left over from traversing the Maowu Canyon dissolved into sheer relief and delight, turning a moment of stress into one of sheer, lucky exhilaration. 

POSTSCRIPT

Traveling solo across the Hengduan Mountains was my very first time planning an entire itinerary and arranging everything — from food and lodging to transport — completely on my own. Along the way, while encountering such breathtaking beauty sometimes brought a quiet sigh that these moments would be even better shared with others, I also deeply relished the agility and freedom of traveling light and adapting on the fly. No matter what, the memories forged on this journey will forever remain my most unforgettable adventure, and I truly hope to retrace this path once again in the days to come.